I actually had the latter one in mind: The one given by {A*x | x^T * x = 1}. I hadn't thought of your other suggestion.
> (I unfortunately do not have intuition for the QR algorithm, but I am distracted by the description of an ellipse falling, as if it's rolling against the x-axis)
I don't know if this helps: https://ibb.co/DRDLzgJ
Each iteration causes it to rotate around the origin. The big semi-axis of the ellipse makes a smaller angle with the x-axis on each iteration. When the semi-axes are parallel to the coordinate axes, the matrix is diagonal.