I will try being maximally explicit.
What is this software that one fifth of companies run
A ridiculously popular application, written in PHP, which is widely useful to software companies (among others).
why is technically savvy in scare quotes
I originally wrote "startup" then thought "Actually, this is deployed by a lot of people who aren't startups or who are only arguably startups, hmm, that is an unproductive debate, let's just say what I mean then move on."
some veiled reference to something called spray-and-pray?
Many applications have a well-known set of URLs associated with them. A spray-and-pray exploit is one which you can just fire at a well-known URL at every machine which responds to port 80 in IP4 space. The reason I am not identifying the vulnerable software written in PHP is that it would allow any script kiddie smart enough to text edit the existing exploit scripts to exploit that software as an additional vector.
fastcgi_params does not put attacker controlled data into environment variables (without the quotes)
I'm absolutely positive that fastcgi_params does indeed clobber $_ENV with attacker supplied data if PHP is configured as described above. I am less strongly confident that some configurations of PHP will allow $_ENV to get to at least some subprocesses. I am absolutely confident that some configurations of PHP will not allow you to set $_ENV nor set environmental variables. I have figured out ways to configure it which put the fastcgi_params in $_SERVER but not $_ENV and, separately, in $_ENV but not in environment variables passed to subprocesses. I'm aware of a PHP command which the documentation suggests defaults to passing $_ENV as actual environment variables to subprocesses but which I have not been able to verify actually works as the documentation says, due to it being 6 AM in the morning local time and me having insufficient motivation to continue finding more reasons to justify the conclusion that this bug is very, very bad news and bash needs to get patched immediately everywhere.