In most cases in mainland China, no tax is paid and cash is king. Only if you are a large, visible company doing business with other large, visible companies do you need to get formalistic. Even then, double or triple sets of accounts are normal.
I pay plenty of taxes. Heck, I pay the tax on my rent for a fapiao that gives me a tax benefit at work. The PRC is getting better about tax collection, though a lot of activity still goes on underground, especially those that are related to money laundering.