As you say, it's so much easier to get good solder joints (especially for the fine stuff like QFN/BGA) with lead blends and flux, that having a vent hood is likely required as well.
I've used only lead-free solder for a decade. Get the good stuff with some silver in it and it's not difficult.
At work I get to use a very very expensive Olympus binocular microscope. It is extraordinarily good, but at about 60k it costs more than a car.
They have great field of view (cm) at decent/variable magnification (20-100x) and response time is instant, whereas your phone/USB are going to have just enough delay to be annoying.
Looking at videos of people using microscopes, the quality seems to be on-par or worse than my phone.
Plus USB scope things are like $80 on AliExpress and work fine.
From what I can see, the Mantis microscopes are in the $3500+ range and the JBC stuff is similarly expensive.
Most hobbyists would cringe at the price of buying a Thermaltronics soldering iron and that's like 5x cheaper. However, I can at least conclusively demonstrate the vast difference between something like that and a Hakko right in front of a person.
This stuff is like the difference between a $100 guitar, a $500 guitar, and a $2000 guitar. The difference between the $100 and the $500 one is obvious to almost everybody. The differences between the $500 and $2000 one won't be obviously noticeable until you get a lot of experience.
I find the lag to be murder when trying to solder very small things. I can use a USB microscope in a pinch, but it makes me miserable.
I would expect that this setup would work pretty well for a bench microscope setup if the camera can output video and isn't too big to mount on a tabletop tripod. Rather a lot can be done with crop zoom if you can get the focal length and lighting right.
I stumped up for a set of dental loupes many moons ago and they were nice, but expensive. They're safety glasses to boot.
They're come down dramatically in price since then. https://www.practicon.com/Loupes-Magnifying-Eyewear