Many gas boilers are oversized which means it's more difficult to run them efficiently. Also, many gas boilers have capability to run more efficiently but are not configured to.
This particular boiler does not seem to respect the MM=0 command (despite OpenTherm's such specification requirement) which is not uncommon. SAT sends the MM=0 command for the boiler to work at its minimum capacity. CS= minimum_setpoint and then PWM controls the ON/OFF times of the boiler. However, I have a workaround which ensures that most of the time, the boiler is indeed working at its minimum modulation, unless the target flow (heating curve + PID) demand is high [higher than current flow temperature] during warm up.
The boiler supplies heat to the central heating and domestic hot water tank, but not at the same time. The hot water tank capacity is 255 litres. When DHW call is made, boiler ignores OpenTherm instructions and runs at 80 C degrees. There are three zone valves in the house: Hot Water, Upstairs and Downstairs (not talking about TRVs here). When DHW call is made, Hot Water valve opens, and Upstairs & Downstairs close; then if CH call is made, Hot Water valve closes and the other two open.
The hot water system is also fitted with "Waste Water Heat Recovery System". In essence, the heat energy extracted from showers and baths is used to preheat cold water that is then sent to the hot water tank. The extraction recovers about 60% of heat normally lost. You can watch examples of how it works here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-jKlCoRvEM
SAT project - the brain behind the efficiency https://github.com/Alexwijn/SAT
OpenEnergyMonitor - for making possible to share real time boiler data https://community.openenergymonitor.org/t/my-gas-boiler-data...
Any questions, let me know :)
I really want one of these - the >40C water going down my drain being replaced with <20C water into my hot water tank keeps me up at night (figuratively). Such an easy win to exchange some of he heat out. It is on my shopping list for the next house / next renovation.
You should add dhw water temperature sensors to the mix too.
Or you could send all the waste heat to a big sump and extract it with a heat pump (dont think that actually exists though - or would be some form of ground source heat) - at extreme temperatures would be worth it.
I think a big part of the challenge would be in having multiple heat exchangers. Perhaps (if plumbing codes allowed) a plain p-trap could be swapped out for an exchanger unit that also serves as a sewer gas stop.
I don't know anything about thermodynamics; how long would it take to transfer a reasonable amount of energy from waste water into the coolant?
Another issue again, running all these coolant lines back to a central water heater w/another exchanger. It does all sound pretty complicated and expensive.
This is one product (linked below) like this although I think plastic would be fine if a little less thermal conductivity and less expensive than this much copper.
You’re using hot water at X gallons per minute while the heater can heat Y<X gallons a minute but the water is extracted from the top of the tank so it stays fairly hot until you’ve used more than half of the tank, then drops like a rock at the end when the supply is exhausted.
Anything that warms the cold water going to your shower slightly reduces the rate of hot water use, which extends the amount of time before you run out, which is more time to heat more water.
That recoup thing looks really good it always seems a shame to let all that heated water go to waste.
https://blog.gcwizard.net/manual/en/summer-simmer-index-perc...
21.3 – 25 °C Somewhat cool. Most people feel comfortable. 25 – 28.3 °C Optimal. Almost everyone feels comfortable. 28.3 – 32.8 °C Somewhat hot. Most people feel comfortable.
I think it's fine if you define efficiency by some other metric where it can rise above 100%, but if so you should clearly elucidate how.
At least in the US (not sure where you are), combustion boiler/furnace efficiency is required to be calculated using the HHV, which includes the heat of vaporization, not the LHV. The result is that even the highest efficiency condensing combustion heating systems all have rated efficiencies below 100%, which makes sense thermodynamically.
It seems that the standard in Europe is to instead calculate efficiency using LHV, resulting in the efficiency rating over 100% for condensing boiler. > 100% doesn't make sense thermodynamically, but is good enough for comparing when the same calculation is used.
Either way, it should be made more clear in the UI that it is using LHV.
Maybe you should educate yourself some before writing posts you know nothing about.
Except another commenter, obviously more versed in the field than I, specifically highlighted how this efficiency is calculated differently based on what is specified as the denominator, and the rules are apparently different for the US vs. Europe: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=40055464. So perhaps it is you that should educate yourself.
Edit: Also, is this a new build or did you retrofit your waste water heat recovery system? I'd like one but in my house the bathrooms are on opposite sides of the house upstairs, so would need to fit one in each and the costs don't stack up. If I built a house with the bathrooms backing on to each other it would be a no-brainer.
The only other hardware requirement afaict is room & outdoor temperature sensors (for the Home Assistant component). But you probably have to be willing and able to wire it up yourself, or else ask around and maybe with a bit of luck find a willing plumber - I don't expect most would touch it.
OpenTherm is a standard communications protocol which SAT uses, however, you need this hardware:
https://www.nodo-shop.nl/en/featured/211-opentherm-gateway.h... - board
https://www.nodo-shop.nl/en/our-products/213-wemos-d1-mini.h... - WEMOS D1 MINI
https://www.nodo-shop.nl/en/solder-service/202-soldering-ser... - soldering service
It costs €29.50 + €6.25 + €7.50 soldering service + delivery , so that it comes as a ready kit for you.
You also need an indoor temperature sensor. You can get a zigbee device, such as - https://www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/WSDCGQ12LM.html
For outdoor temperature, Home Assistant will cover that out of box.
The installation is usually very simple, you connect two cables to the boiler and its OpenTherm module in the boiler and then it uses MQTT to connect to Home Assistant via WiFi. If you are not comfortable touching the boiler, ask your plumber to help you.
By the way, that hardware is much cheaper than Hive which does not support OpenTherm at all. Google Nest does but is so extremely limited, and from my experience, it was cycling too often and did not autotune which is the main reason why you want SAT.
If you check the manufacturer of your boiler and its model, you should be able to find out if your boiler supports OpenTherm.
This is new build~ (2017) and the heat recovery system was installed when it was built but we are not the first owners of the house and personally, I would probably not try to retrofit such system.
My new boiler will be a Viessmann 100-W which looks to support OpenTherm, but some online posts say once you link it to an OpenTherm thingy you lose use of the controls on the boiler. I'll try and check that out.
Edit: Argh, nodo-shop.nl don't ship to the UK. **** Brexit.
https://emoncms.org/app/view?name=GlowWormBoiler&readkey=88a...
https://emoncms.org/app/view?name=TomsBoiler&readkey=484aa31...
I have no doubts about the interest level of it (kudos!) -- and I am curious what the total gains are versus LOE. I have a renovation coming up and I have interests in putting together a lot of custom work but its seems like it would be a labor of love (though it might be end up a project of frustration :) ).
I will have to wait for a year to compare the data of total gas cost with the previous year.
If I was renovating and starting from scratch, I would probably invest in a ground source heat pump, which can offer climate control in summer and winter.
I mean at the end of the day home energy is more about comfort then efficiency and is relatively small money economics.