Also, even under normal conditions the type of wave you would see at the beach with a height of 3m is insanely powerful. I think the highest I have body surfed in was maybe 2-2.5m and if you get caught in the break of the wave you are literally powerless and get dragged under water and spun around for quite some distance. It is a bizarre experience and doesn't really match the basic intuition of how powerful it should be.