That doesn't make sense though. The fuses aren't to protect the load; they are to protect the circuit. It's up to whatever device you are plugging in to not draw more current than it can handle.

If I have a 3 Watt doohickey, I don't go looking around to find a 0.025A socket, I plug it in to my 15A wall socket and everything works great.

Each individual socket isn’t fused though. The entire circuit is. The fuse(breaker) is going to be significantly bigger than any of those amperages.

The breaker is there to protect the wiring in the building, nothing more. It’s spec’d to the gauge of the cable in the wall typically.

It's not dangerous in practice. Reading through NEC in the US, there's plenty of leeway for mixing ampacity ratings on circuits, within certain limits. For example, it's fine to have 10x 15A duplex on a 20A circuit. It results in less wiring, and allows for logical grouping of circuits. Electrical code starts from the the most common causes of electrical failures, and tries to design down from there. The ampacity ratings on devices and various components of the circuit are designed to reject the common causes of failure, and conductor failure at the device isn't one of them (appliance manufacturers are more likely to get their devices certified, so if there's a failure in the appliance, some other part of the appliance's electrical system will fail before the conductors do).

So the ampacity of the connector (duplex and plug) is meant to reject certain combinations (plugging a 30amp appliance into a 15amp duplex/circuit). It's obviously very easy to get around that by just wiring things together wrong (18AWG wire on a 30Amp circuit), but by design, a 30amp appliance with the proper plug cannot be plugged into a 15amp outlet.

Of course, this is informed by the electrical code in my home country, so I understand that other places and people have different experiences, but electrical accidents have been on a steady downward trend since the 80's, so the NFPA NEC has to be doing at least some things right.

> With Type A for 127V, the worldwide standard for 120V plugs.

That would be going backwards, and losing all the safety features of the new NBR 14136 ("type N") standard; to make it worse, we already did use something like "type A" (with "universal" sockets which accepted both flat and round pins, and sometimes even grounded "type B" together with these two, it was a mess) for both 127V and 220V, so you'd still have (in older buildings) these "type A" plugs being used for 220V.

"The candle that burns twice as bright, burns half as long"

The math was a little off, but the quote still comes to mind