> A big chunk of it is one man bands who know C and maybe some C++
The parallel here to "enterprise development" is the small companies that have one guy who knows C# or VB. Pay's also about the same, as is the (non-existent) level of process automation.
I agree with your point, but I don't want compare apples to oranges. The "embedded world" that's "crying out for people experienced in modern software teams" is the one that's doing large projects with teams of 5-20 developers, not the ones with one or two. If you want to find those teams you'll need to look at the projects that require lots of people like Defense or complex medical devices, etc.
I've been doing embedded systems for my entire career and TBH, I don't much care if a candidate has ever seen a dev board or used a logic analyzer. It's a nice to have, don't get me wrong, but I care a lot more that they understand SOLID, version control, unit testing, can speak intelligently about why they love or hate TDD, etc. We typically already have people with enough low-level experience to build hardware abstractions that the "enterprise people" can program to.
These days, someone who understands software security on interconnected systems is a much more interesting candidate than one who can bit-twiddle on an 8051.