I think is all about testing your water to make sure it is safe to drink. From what I have seen the area where I live (US, SC) is tested periodically to ensure it is safe to drink.
There is also the lead component. I do not have any lead pipes but I am thinking about getting a water test from a lab anyway.
Are you doing anything to ensure your water is safe to drink? What are you thoughts?
Thank you.
"For half of the tap water sources we examined, adults may fulfill between 8% and 16% of their Ca2+ DRI and between 6% and 31% of their Mg2+ DRI by drinking 2 liters per day." from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1495189/
And another paper on calcium: "On an average basis this would represent 5% to 10% of the usual daily intake or approximately 6.5% of the adult RDA." from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK216589/
The calcium seems negligible. Magnesium is a top nutrient deficiency in Western diets, so could be somewhat negative, but because of that I (and probably you) should be supplementing magnesium anyway. Sodium is obviously found abundantly in western diets.
So based on that, I don't think re-mineralizing's tiny benefits are worth the potential risk of re-adding negative contaminants somehow.
But it does hint toward a potential linkage, which is our food system.
The areas you are thinking about are also: food deserts, low-income, and low education levels. All of which are stronger predictors of obesity.
If you filter the water where it enters your house, you may change the chemistry, and you are quite likely to dechlorinate and possibly dechloraminate your water. So now water that stagnates in your pipes can start growing things, hot water in your water heater might be more likely to grow legionella, and your pipes and fittings might be more likely to leach metals.
You could consider an under-sink filter. They’re quite inexpensive and fairly easy to install. And you don’t use up their capacity for things like flushing the toilet.
https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2021/mar/31/americas-tap...
https://www.usnews.com/news/health-news/articles/2022-04-08/...
https://www.commondreams.org/news/2020/04/16/flint-water-cri...
Extended family members died from drinking uranium-contaminated water around Durango. They all lived in the same house and died of unusual cancers within about a decade of each other. They didn't find out about it until it was too late.
Interestingly, soluble forms of uranium are anionic, so cation exchange resins (which remove lead, for example) don’t remove it. Apparently one can use an anion exchange resin or (I assume) a reverse osmosis filter.
Personally, I filter all water because I’m an obsessive but I’ve come to realise that I’m probably increasing the likelihood of exposure to something not-good — because now I have complete responsibility for maintaining and cleaning my filtering, no big government machine keeping my water clean, just me and my human negligence.
There are never ending risks to everything we do, be mindful you don’t get caught up in trying to make everything perfectly safe — especially if you have children, the paranoia and worry is more transmissible than whatever is in your water.
A belt and suspenders approach alleviates this a bit, have the input into your system be processed municipal water.
Other than for taste or hardness, I never felt particularly like filtering water. I don't think I can outsmart the dozen PHDs that run our municipal water system and don't want the hassle or waste of dealing with filters.
Also, obsessively filtering water can come with it's own health concerns. You can filter out the treatments added to water that prevent toxic algae from growing. And natural impurities in our water are actually a very underrated and important source of minerals.
Testing water can get a little complicated and expensive. Ideally you’d test at the water source (where it enters your home) and at the point of use (where you pour it into your cup to drink it). This way you know the quality of the source water and the quality of the water after it flows through your pipes.
Testing this way can get expensive though. Also, ideally you’d test about once a year to see if there are changes.
Once you get the test results you’ll know what specifically you need to do to treat the water. You may not need anything.
I would suggest using Tapscore for the testing. I’ve used them in the past. https://mytapscore.com/
One final bit of advice, if you do want to get something like a reverse osmosis filter, go to a company that makes RO filters and send them your test results. I learned the hard way that there was too much radon in my water to work with the very expensive RO filter that I bought.
Just enter your city/town name. Click data, and choose whether youre looking at Public Water or Point of use data.
I've had the same filter elements in mine for years. Recently I needed a glass of water for my night stand and the filter was empty. It's slow to fill so I just filled the glass from the tap. I thought the chlorine would evaporate overnight. Well maybe it did, but one way or another the water still tasted gross the next morning. So the filters are still doing something. And that's after 5 years.
https://info.nsf.org/Certified/DWTU/
Also, its’s expensive.
I consider this to be a baseline:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000517548/
It’s genuinely NSF listed, varies from about $40 to about $60, and has pretty good throughput.
For anything fancier, I would either get an RO system with a permeate pump (and I would absolutely do this if I lived somewhere with annoyingly hard water) or a commercial system. Check webstaurantstore.com or similar.
If you have a dramatic taste improvement with filtration, you probably have chlorinated water. IMO it tastes nasty, is easy to remove, and is harmless to drink at normal concentrations if the chemistry is right. Lobby your utility to switch to chloramine for residual disinfection.
(If you spend time around pools, you might be familiar with these compounds in a swimming pool context. Chlorine has a mild clean smell, and many people don’t love it in their drinking water. Chlorine plus many organic things turns into monochloramine, dichloramine, and nitrogen trichloride. These are collectively called “combined chlorine”. The latter two are utterly disgusting and possibly quite harmful, and the nasty “chlorine” smell in less well maintained pools, especially indoors, is those. Pure monochloramine is inoffensive in reasonable concentrations.)
What would you test for besides lead? Most contaminants have a very low threshold which is going to be expensive to detect.
Arsenic, Uranium, Hexavalent Chromium, to name a few of my local municipality's measured water contaminants of concern...
This is a good database of water quality: https://www.ewg.org/tapwater/
Yes, we have our own well, about 5.5 m deep and 1.20 wide, lined with concrete rings. It is dug through a non-permeable layer at the foot of a hill which makes the water level in it higher than ground level, making it nearly impossible for surface water to make its way into our supply. When the thaw comes the water gets a bit cloudy from silt (which is what lies between us and bedrock, a layer of a few metres here and there as memory of the last glaciation). I pumped it out once to do some repairs, put a layer of gravel on the bottom and put in a new back valve, for the rest it has worked fail-free in the more than 20 years that we live here. I did have the water analysed after the repairs, it was fine. So are we. So will you be, without any silly filtration systems unless your municipality really messes up their water supply.
- Whole house filter consisting of specific commodity 20" large ("big blue") filters
- (NaCl) ion exchange water softener sized for the hardness -> hot and cold water to most indoor piping except kitchen cold water (for watering plants) and outside
- 6 stage + UV 100 GPD RO filtration system using commodity parts. Add a permeate pump option to transfer pressure and reduce waste. There is no real cost difference in production flow rate between 5 GPD and 100 GPD except losses, minor membrane differences, and the restrictor valve. 200 GPD is tankless, so that's a minus.
A US So Cal manufacturer, AMI / wateranywhere.com can ship large orders by freight for 1/3 the price a plumber will charge for a crappy wholesale system. They make RO membranes and industrial-scale desalination systems, so b2b and b2c are side markets for them.
Clean out everything and run antimicrobials at least every 4 months.
It's work, but having nice showers and clean water down to <1 ppm is awesome.
PS: For apartment dwellers in large cities, find a reputable "water store" that has both a commercial AND retail business from the same equipment. Buy your own non-PFOS containers from the REI or some such. Sunray Waters in ATX is one example.
Home testing kits are cheap. Sending it out to the lab is pricey but you get more detail and consistent results. For lead, home testing is fine. You should do at least one mail lab test to start with. Unless your house is ancient, almost certainly you won't find lead. Your water company should be using "clean" sources to ensure no lithium, magnesium and such.
If you -really- care, you could always distill your own water. It's pretty cheap and easy to do so.
If they are not running sufficiently thorough tests for your liking, you can get your own testing done and go from there.
https://www.mwra.com/04water/html/Lead_Faucets.htm
tl;dr: if you think your faucets are older than 2014, run the cold water for a bit before filling a glass for drinking.