It was chugging at ~100 inserts per second on about ~300k rows of <100 bytes each. Just inserts, no index (it was the first thing to go), no foreign keys, one table only. SQLite was spending all the disk bandwidth copying data in and out of a tiny designated working area and flushing. This was in 2013 -- I'm afraid I've forgotten the details. It's an old problem, long fixed by now.
The problem itself didn't concern me nearly as much as "no perf tools + no perf foolproofing." That's a rough combo. If a problem this simple required this much debugging, extrapolations to problems of any complexity are terrifying. I knew that simplicity implied limitations, but this lesson taught me that simplicity could also imply danger.