But "not total junk" is a pretty low bar to clear, and that illustrates the fundamental problem of the Wirecutter: it's never going to be for the professionals, the ones who use objects day after day, long enough to form real opinions. Anyone who knows their field will always laugh at the Wirecutter's recommendations, if not the what then certainly the why.
They no longer let regular NYT subscribers from accessing Wirecutter, one has to buy an extra subscription (I assume almost everyone buying this will also pay for basic NYT access so it is effectively a two layer pay wall)
https://www.nytimes.com/subscription/wirecutter
This is part of NYT plan to divide their content into different groups and charge a subscription for each.
I am not sure if this strategy is smart or not, but my gut feeling is that it is a horrible strategy, and could hurt customer retention rates.