In my opinion it isn’t so much of a lost art or lamentable accretion of useless abstractions, but an increase in the scope of what web apps do these days. Most of us aren’t working on static sites or simple CMS publishing- those are a solved problem. Instead we’re building mobile banks, diagnostic systems, software tooling, 3D games, and shopping malls. The complexity is inherent in the maturity of the web and it’s many uses, as well as its global scale. Hugs of death are rare these days thanks to better architecture and infrastructure, even though the scale of users has grown 100X.
Yes there are wildly unnecessary abstractions that are used for small sites/apps, but I would contend they are artifacts of someone who it’s trying to learn something new, and/or get promoted. I have no problem with the former.