(regardless of how the website is structured, so deleting the CSS doesn't count)
https://codepen.io/dredmorbius/full/KpMqqB
On e-ink, the off-white / off-black colour palette is actually something of a probem, though the page otherwise remains highly readable.
From the original page, the lack of margins is a problem. Text running straight into the gutter is a readability problem.
Also, I hate the yellow.
(Am I the odd one out here to prefer cold light to warm light? Warm light makes me seriously sleepy. But everyone I talk to, they all prefer to have warm lightning in their homes. And like with home lightning, I feel the same about webpages. On HN I got used to warm colors over the years; everywhere else I hate them.)
But seriously - great job!
Given how big of an impact good sleep (or lack thereof) has on my physical and mental health I am in the latter camp too, using a red filter on my screens even during day-time, but everyone's situation is different.
And no, you don't have to fucking love all my shit
The background colour's the 2nd CSS rule (followed immediately by text). If I were to redo the page, I'd have a media query for colour depth and set those to #fff and #000 respectively for B&W screens anyway.
(I don't have the login handy for that CodePen account presently.)
For some web pages, deleting the CSS can help, sometimes not. Perhaps the way to go about such a thing is to consider mainly HTML, also considering CSS and ARIA to fix the layout (some web pages have forms that don't work correctly when CSS is disabled, but I have seen them have ARIA; an implementation could use ARIA to fix up any forms that are broken by doing so). So, while the CSS can be deleted, it still might need to consider it for some purposes, such as checking if something should be removed or formatted differently (e.g. emphasis, fixpitch, etc; HTML can specify such things too but it is not always done properly).
(That web page does have Google Analytics, with the comment "yes, I know...wanna fight about it?" preceding it, but you can just disable JavaScripts to avoid it.)
I still remember the time when user styles were a first class feature built into all browsers. Hell, that 'C' in CSS - "Cascading" - was always there to allow styles to enhance/override prior styles, including allowing the user to override website's styling. Back before web designers ruined everything by making every web page into its own special snowflake, people thought users would have one or two default CSS sheets to choose from and apply to any webpage, the way we today think about "dark mode".
These days, we have to resort to using browser extensions. A well-known one is Stylus [0][1]. In a way, it's much better than old built-in user styles. But then, it's not built in. Still, it's a nice way to fix up some of the frequently visited websites.
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[0] - https://github.com/openstyles/stylus
[1] - Mind the name, it's "Stylus", not "Stylish" - the latter used to be popular, but then it sold out and become another peace of surveillance capitalism detritus. Stylus is a GPLv3 fork of Stylish with data collection removed.