Incognito only works with a new session; it will still eventually trigger the paywall.
See screenshot of this story made a few minutes ago: https://imgur.com/a/WcR8E9T
The toolbar shows "Incognito" and yet the article is blocked by the paywall. NYTimes always shows a paywall after 2 or 3 free articles are hit even in incognito mode.
To "reset" the free articles odometer, I have to completely exit Google Chrome and restart in incognito again. (Deleting cookies also does not work.) This is a hassle since I sometimes keep a continuous Chrome up session up for several weeks with dozens of tabs open.
(I previously played around for 5 minutes in Developer Tools to try and debug NYTimes javascript code to see what they test for besides cookies. I didn't find anything obvious and gave up. (I'm guessing it might have something to do with Local Storage but there's no obvious Chrome setting to delete that other than quitting the entire browser and restarting.))