I program in K, a close relative, and I have done some tinkering with APL. The symbols actually don't take long to memorize- perhaps a few days of practice. It's a bit like learning to read prose. At first you have to sound out words letter by letter, but eventually you're able to "see" words and phrases built out of common patterns of symbols. I see ,/f' and think flatmap, ~~': and think heads of uniform runs, {x@<x} and think sort up, etc.

A dense expression can still take a while to puzzle out sometimes, but certainly no longer than the equivalent logic spelled out in a more verbose language across many lines.